Ex-Googler here. I'm not sure there is one answer to your question.

The culture of your org is 100% dependent on where you are, and primarily flows from your Director. This is both good and bad.

The good: You can have islands of positive culture inside otherwise problematic organizations, provided the Director sets that positive culture and makes sure their managers and leaders help enforce it.

The bad: You can be one re-org away from that positive culture going away. That said, I experienced many higher-level re-orgs that people basically considered no-ops because our Director didn't change, and I know of orgs that have had good culture for over 10 years.

If you are considering a role in some part of Google (either as a new hire or an internal transfer), you should ask probing questions about the organization itself to try and understand its specific culture and how that culture is embraced by the people inside it.

We just let the LLMs rip and spend most of our time in the sleeping pods or the buffet. Six figures for days of relaxation. It truly is the good life.

My friends who work there all hate it, the culture has become toxic. Everyone is hanging on for dear life to preserve their standard of living.

You go there every day, and they give you money. It's not great but it's just a job after all. It's quite weird because they expect you to do something for at least 20 hours every week, sometimes even more. It's not easy to keep up.

They made me come in on a Wednesday last week, and I was like "Whaaat?", I'm not doing that for 250K/month, like are you kidding